Then I moved to finer details. The rear axle hubs come from M&G and the front ones are scratchbuild as I didn't find any that would suit me.













(My truck does not carry the Scania badge on the front axle, the 1:1 pic shows another unit in the Ceusters fleet...)

jan very impressive build so far and pictures are corect size the scania badges in the italeri kit would fit front axle..??????? looking forward to see progress

Hi gerry,

well I didn't try the decals as the real truck I am building; 952 in the first pic; doesn't have it so there is no need for that. It might fit and there is also an extra Griffin decal set Flemming Pedersen offers.

superb build on the wheels alone.

mark

Jan, I was always a fan of Your models (I saw few of them on MTM in Poland). That chassis looks incredible and these super single rims - superb job. I'm tempted to do Scania R 500 6x2 in Ceusters colours (even have some decals made for it), but i don't want to make mess with starting too many models in one time. I wonder - did You finished the trailers for Your Mack Magnum yet?
Regards, Thomas

yerp i agree with the majority you have done a great job so far

Hi there,

thank you for so many positive comments.

I know this custom style is not everyone's taste and it took some time for me to understand and adopt it. I had a chance to have a closer look on such trucks and understand the way they are being build in 1:1 scale during my progress on this model and it has been a very interesting lesson for me. I am going to get back to older trucks after finishing this one anyway.

thomas: Thank you for the nice words. Concerning the trailers, the project is now frozen during the following facts:
- I started this project more than six years ago and have learnt so much during those years so that the quality of the trailers cannot be compared to me rycent work
- I am not into this type of trucks anymore. I mean - I like them but I feel myself much more comfortable among 60's-80's european trucks. It has to do with my age as I am 26 now and my opinions and thoughts had a chance to grow up a bit during the last few years. I was not that conscious when I was 18 (Who is?) and I usually went for a first thing that came to mi mind without any further thinking. This led to the Magnum project and I was hardly able to finish the tractor itself. My trailers need a large amount of extra work to be up to date and I don't think I am going to put that much time into something that I am not focused in anymore. I'll rather try and move forward into earlier trucking periods (and keep the trailers in the box sleeping as a monument of my teenage insatiability).

Now let's get back to Scania.

The first thing I had to think about was the rear bumper. I had to scratchbuild on myself as there isn't any proper avalable. I have seen one from Jean Claude Lescrenier but after getting some of his finer stuff (additional lights, marker lights) I know that his master's are not as fine and clean as I need. I took the KFS superb etched lights and build a bumper around them.

The first thing was the basic body. I made it out of a piece of aluminum sheet and plastic card plus the Flemming's mudflaps.





The result was filled with the Loctite 480 (black) super glue, sanded and sprayed with Mr.Surfacer 1200.

The light as mentioned above are a standard KFS item and provide a perfect basis for the modern custom truck work.



I just had to make my own frames.

I started with a square pattern on a "milimeter paper". (We call it "milimeter paper" here, I don't know what is the proper expression for that in English)



This pattern was transfered to a 0,5 mm plastic sheet simply with a pin to mark the corners and scalpel providing the lines.



Then the sheet was cut into single stripes:



and further into separate pieces large enough for two lights and fitted with framing made of 0,5 mm plastic strip to form the final part.








What you see in the early stage on the part is the black Loctite 480:


It is a "super glue" but has some special properties that I like about it:
-it is not as brittle as the classic clear super glue (Loctite Super Attak for example)
-it needs a bit more time (few more seconds) to harden that gives you enough time to insert the pieces in the correct position
-it is not as hard as the usual clear super glue so you can remove it easily when sanding the part
-it is black so you can easily see if there is any glue left on the part (and where) when using this glue instead of standard putty

Now why am I using this glue both as a putty and glue instead of standard stuff?

1) It's somewhere between a standard super glue and modelling glue (Contacta from Revell) so it gives me enough time to put the part into correct position but is hard in a few seconds. It does not melt plastic.

2) It could be easily used for filling small gaps and slots when gluing the parts together. Again you don't need any extra time for putty to harden, just a few seconds.

3) There is an extra trick how to remove the excess glue from the part where you don't need it. You just apply a special liquid that melts the super glue on a part using some fine brush (like these ones from Microbrush ) very gently that will allow you to remove 90% of the excess glue and just sand the final result very gently. The liquid is called "debonder" here and it's just a clear liquid that melts all the cyanoacrylate glues but does not melt plastic.

I can't imagine making my finest parts without this stuff. I am not telling you that this is the only way but just the way that I do it.

Thank's for the extra info, Charles.

The bumper could be purchased via http://www.modelmakershop.com/, he should receive a new ones in a few days.

I don't understand that thing with scale...?